#513 - 04/20/05 07:18 PM
Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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JS
Junior Member
Registered: 04/17/05
Posts: 7
Loc: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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Tahiti and French Polynesia
March 19 to April 1, 2005
Trip Report
The following is an account of our recent trip to Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora. Why provide this information? Two primary reasons: 1) Its fun to remember a wonderful trip and pass that experience on to other people, and 2) This forum provided some much needed information for our trip, so we wanted to thank everyone by contributing additional material hopefully helping those planning future adventures. Photographs can really help “paint the picture” of what you are likely to expect. With that in mind, I posted approximately 60 images on my personal web site, concentrating on our selected accommodations along with a few scenery shots
http://home.wi.rr.com/jstrong53402/ . Please feel free to give us a visit. I hope it will be as informative as the diary. If you have any additional questions, send us a note at this email address: jstrong1@wi.rr.com. Our comments are primarily arranged by island with a little information on the start and end of the trip. Good Luck on making your travel arrangements. I’m sure you will have as an enjoyable time as we did.
So here goes …..
March 19, 2005: We departed the Chicago area by United Airlines one day before our flight on Tahiti Nui (Tahiti’s Official Airline). This was not my first visit to the islands and I wanted to relax without the rush of checking in on the same day. After 4 hours of flying it was nice to once again touch ground in Los Angeles. We opted to stay at the Hacienda Hotel, just a short distance from the airport. The hotel provides free shuttle service. The facility is designed with a Spanish architecture. We received a room in the South Tower (Price for 2 people - $92). We arrived around 4:30 in the afternoon so after checking in, it was time to find something to eat. We walked across the street to the “Sizzler” in the strip mall across the street. The hotel also has a restaurant. After the evening meal and a short walk, it was time to return to our room for some TV before bed.
March 20, 2005: Our flight to Tahiti (Papeete) was not scheduled to depart till 4:30 PM, so we had time to relax in the morning. After breakfast at the hotel, we took a rather lengthy walk around the surrounding community of El Segundo (We attempted to walk to the nearby ocean but decided to turn around at the ½ way point due to the time), we packed up our clothes and headed for LAX. The hotel has airport shuttle service every ½ hour. We decided to get to the airport shortly after lunch which we ate at the Chinese restaurant in the same strip mall.
One thing I want to mention is the amount of luggage we carried. We decided to limit ourselves to just backpacks which amounted to approximately 18 pounds of carry-on per person. This way we could dispense with checking our luggage. The limit for hand carried luggage on Tahiti Nui flights was 20 lbs or approximately 10 kilos. It was not difficult to pack with these limits since you don’t need many clothes in the tropics. Basically we carried 3 sets of clothing, primarily quick-drying shorts and t-shirts along with 2 good button-down shirts to be worn with long pants in the evenings. Other items included toiletries, suntan lotion, bug spray, a swim suit, travel documents, a small day pack, a digital camera (with adapters), and a handbook of the islands. We only brought along sandals (those worn like shoes rather than the flip-flops) and wore them with socks and our long pants during our US flights. A light wind breaker was also packed, although we only used it in California and in Chicago. Laundry was done almost every evening in the hotel bathtub and placed up to dry on a clothes line we carried. Of course, I had to bring along some laundry soap. I would highly recommend this mode of travel – not having to worry about luggage and the long lines at the airports just made the trip more enjoyable. I might say that no one could understand how we traveled so light. All our shorts and pants (made by Columbia and REI) were light weight and fast drying. These can be purchased at any major outdoor sporting company.
We arrived and checked in with our airline company (Air Tahiti Nui) approximately 4 hours before the flight. We were the first to receive boarding passes. In retrospect 2-3 hours would have been plenty – March 20 was a Sunday and the airport was not very crowded. At LAX you board the aircraft at the International Terminal. If you are arriving on a domestic flight you will have to walk or catch a bus to this final destination. I would advice you to purchase any food services in the main terminal prior to going through security. Food is severely limited near the gates. The International Terminal contains a variety of shops and restaurants including a McDonalds (Something we will see more of in Tahiti!).
I decided to exchange some American dollars for Polynesian Francs (CFP) at LAX. I wanted to be sure I had some cash on hand upon my arrival in Tahiti. The exchange rate was approximately 85 CFP for $1.00 with no commission charge. A considerable change from a few years ago when the American dollar was nearly 100 CFP. When I arrived in Tahiti the exchange rate was higher (87 CFP) but a commission of approximately 500 CFP was charged on each exchange You will need to do the math to figure out your best deal based on the exchange rates at the time of travel.
The airplane departed on time. The aircraft was an “Airbus” (manufactured in Europe), in “mint” condition. All of the aircraft that Air Tahiti operates are fairly new. Although the seating was similar to our domestic airlines when it comes to available space, the aircraft did contain state-of-the-art media facilities. Each seat had its own small LCD screen offering a selection of movies (perhaps 6 or more for each leg of the flight). In addition, various video games were available free of charge. The LCD system also followed the flight using a global positioning system (GPS) -- keeping track of the aircrafts position over the Pacific, displaying outside wind, temperature, altitude, and distance from LAX and PPT (Papeete). The flight attendants also dispensed free wine, two meals, and provided a “package” of travel aids to each occupant that contained socks, ear plugs, headset for listening to movies/music, blanket, pillow, face wipes, and a mask to cover your eyes for those wishing to sleep. I will have to admit it was the best service of any airline company flown on in the United States, with the exception of perhaps Midwest Airlines out of Milwaukee. All announcements by the staff were made in Tahitian, French and English. It was a good start to our trip. The flight took approximately 8 hours and we arrived on time – 10:45 PM Tahiti Time (2 hours earlier than Los Angeles)
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TAHITI – March 20 to March 23, 2005: Wow, what a difference in climate! The temperature was 87 degrees F with light winds and very high humidity. Be prepared, it does take time getting used to. We immediately walked down a set of stairs from the aircraft onto the tarmac, and then proceeded into the airport for immigration and customs. This took almost no time at all (less than 30 minutes). We did not have any luggage to pick-up and was not singled out for inspection. Upon leaving the customs area our travel company met us and provided transportation to our hotel in Tahiti. We were tired, but excited. We got to ride in an air conditioned bus for the next leg of our trip, so it helped in the cooling down process. The bus dropped off people at various hotels along the way. Ours was the last stop – Hotel Le Meridien, 17 kilometers east of the airport.
The staff at the Le Meridien assigned us a room on the second floor. All rooms have exterior room access, a rather large bathroom (separated shower and tub), ample space for hanging clothes, and a large bed. The rooms were air conditioned and had a small lanai overlooking the swimming lagoon. Most of the rooms are classified as garden view. The hotel also has a few over water bungalows. It was not long before we were in bed and fast asleep – around 1:00 AM Tahiti Time.
Monday, March 21 dawned clear, bright, and just as hot. After taking a few photos, breakfast was our first order of business. It was 7:00 AM. We had booked a package to stay at Le Meridien in both Tahiti and on Bora Bora with complimentary breakfast. It turned out to be a really good deal. The dining area was an open air facility next to a pond filled with fish and flowers. It was just a short distance from the swimming lagoon and nearby beach. The food was arranged buffet style and consisted of the regular American breakfast items (cereal, toast, eggs, waffles, pancakes, French toast, bacon and the like) along with many Japanese items (rice and miso soup), dozens of fruit salads, many different types of breads/jams/rolls, other assorted hot items, and the local specialty of raw fish with coconut milk. It was a rather large spread! Fresh fruit juice, tea and coffee topped off the selection. I had to sign for the meals each morning so I was aware of the standard price – 3,000 CFP/person – that’s about $35/person. As you will note, meals were very expensive throughout the islands. If you don’t want to pay this price, it’s possible to catch a bus (Le Truck) into Papeete or walk just west of the hotel to a mall and grocery store. Purchasing food outside the established restaurants, which we did on Moorea, can save you a considerable sum of money.
After breakfast we retuned to our room to pick up a small day pack containing our camera and sunscreen, and walked across the street to pick up transportation into town. It was easy to get a bus (Le Truck), just flag down the first one you see. Although some bus stops are designated, most buses will pickup or unload at any location. Note that there are both ‘new’ trucks, that are air conditioned and looks just like the ones in the US, and old trucks with are large trucks with wooden roof and widows built on the back. All buses seem to run to the same destination at that time of the morning. The fare into Papeete is 250 CFP/person. Let me assure you it’s cheap. Remember most bus transportation only runs till 6:00 PM. I forgot and had to get a taxi to return home later that evening. The cost was 4,000 CFP for 2 people ($47) from the Sheraton (a mile from down town) back to Le Meridien.
We spent the entire day in Papeete just going from store to store and looking at available restaurants for the evening. We decided to pickup lunch at the local Papeete Market in the center of town. Items were inexpensive (including fruits, root crops, vegetables, coconuts and fish). Sandwiches, made from long loaves of French bread (from Chinese vendors, you will notice that most businesses are run by Chinese), cost only 150 CFP. With a can of Coke (250 CFP) the meal came to under $5.00. I had more than enough to eat. My partner in crime opted for a hot rice dish that cost 800 CFP, a few dollars more. We carried our lunch over to the waterfront (nice city park) where we sat under the coconut trees and enjoyed the sights.
One of the distinctive changes from my last visit in the 1980’s was the development of a 4-lane highway linking the outskirts of Papeete with the center of town. Cars were everywhere, especially during the late afternoon as everyone headed out of town. It seems that everyone was in a hurry to go nowhere. I can still remember the older 2 lane road and more leisurely pace of life. Another item that caught my eye was the Americanization of the Tahitian culture with the appearance of McDonalds. It’s funny to walk down the street and see the “Golden Arches” in the distance. One franchise is right down town (I believe off the Rue Du General De Gaulle), another on the road to the airport. I understand the island has three. Times do bring change.
Later in the afternoon we visited a black pearl dealer (SCA Fakarava Pearls Farm), watched a video of how they were cultured, and then sifted through hundreds upon hundreds of black pearls in the hopes of picking up a few gifts to take home. Prices ranged from about $30 up to $1000’s depending on the grade and quality of the pearls. It was fun and worth the time and effort. It’s one of the few items we brought back to remember French Polynesia.
Papeete is a bustling community that gets an early start in the morning, takes a nap around lunch time (many stores close), and then shuts down shortly after 5:00 PM. Night falls early for its dark by 6:15 PM. We found that many restaurants don’t open their doors till 6:30 PM. Rather than spending time indoors eating dinner, we decided to walk back to the waterfront (north of the Tourism Information Center) and enjoy a meal prepared by one of the local vendors (Les Roulottes). These people appear in their vans around 6:00 PM, setting up tables and charcoal fires ready to serve the passerby. The selection is primarily Chinese based with sautéed vegetables and meats (fish, beef, chicken) along with some pizza and sandwiches like hamburgers. The price was approximately 1,000 CFP/entree ($11) depending on selection, not including a drink. A bottle of water could easily run additional 400 CFP. It’s worth noting that in Tahiti, water is not served along with the meal. While you can ask for tap water, we usually just order a large (1.5 liter) of locally bottled water going by the brand Vaimento. Beer and wine were also available. The food was plentiful though greasy.
I might also mention that I exchanged additional cash in Papeete for Polynesian Francs during the day. Most of the banks prefer you use ATM type machines outside rather than deal directly with an inside teller. These machines take various world currencies (cash) and convert the funds based on rates that given day. The rate paid by the Bank of Polynesia was 87 CFP for each $1.00. They also took a commission of approximately 500 CFP per transaction. The machines are set up to handle multiple bills. Remember to make larger transactions, i.e. to feed in more bills before pushing the OK button, to avoid stiff commission fees. Another item to note is the exchange machines did not recognize the new dollars issued by the US Treasury (colored currency) – make sure you carry older bills.
After dinner we retreated to the hotel, via a costly taxi ride (mentioned previously) and went to bed.
Our agenda for Tuesday, March 22nd was a trip around the island via rental car. Being in Tahiti three other times nearly 20 years ago, I never got around the entire island. This was an opportunity to do so. The day started out un-eventful with the rental of a car from Europcar (Reception desk was in the lobby of the hotel). Perhaps we could have rented a less expensive vehicle, but this dealer was close and convenient. It was a small European compact (Kia Picanto) with air conditioning. It was clean and well maintained. The price however was $150 for 24 hours. Collision insurance was not included, but rather you had to give them permission to debit your credit card 50,000 CFP ($588) as a deposit against bringing back the car in damaged condition. Although this seemed high, off we went. The total distance around the island is approximately 120 kilometers. We made numerous stops on our journey at roadside points of interest (overhanging cliffs and fresh water springs are found adjacent to the highway), small grocery stores, a restaurant for lunch, the Paul Gauguin Museum, and longer drive up a side road on Tahiti-Iti (smaller islet attached to the main island). This portion of the trip provided a sweeping view of the main island against a backdrop of meadows with grazing cows that you would swear were in the Mid-West or South. The place was called “Vaiufaufa Viewpoint”.
We decided to take the trip in a counter-clockwise direction (heading South) from our origination point at the Le Meridien. That being the case we ended up in Papeete during the late afternoon. Since we were keeping the car overnight, we were able to park downtown and eat dinner. We selected an Italian restaurant (L’api’zzeria – at 44 rue de Commandant Destremeau), on the west part of town. A “no frills” Meal again ran about $25-35 per person.
This trip was not entirely without stress. While parked at the Paul Gauguin Museum someone opened their car door and placed a considerable dent in the rental car. You can of course imagine that I figured the day cost me nearly $800. I retuned the car the next day, but was unable to speak to the Europcar representative for she had called in sick. So I left the car, after talking to another rental agent, not knowing what the final charges would be. Not until the end of my vacation was I able to reach the appropriate people to confirm that no charges for damage would be assessed. I was so stressed and bothered by the incident and decided that it would have been worth it to take the tour rather than renting a car. Wow!!!
March 23 again dawned clear and hot. We were scheduled to leave the Le Meridien around 10:00 AM by bus so the morning was spent packing up our few belongings, taking some additional pictures, finalizing the car contract, and just waiting for the bus to arrive. As planned by our travel agent, the bus was on time. We returned to Faa’a airport for our scheduled departure at 1:00 PM.
I can say in closing that we actually scheduled too much the first few days, especially considering the heat and humidity. We were both worn out at the end of the day. I would suggest trying to confine your activities to ½ day and then relaxing. We spent little time at the Le Meridien, something that I now regret. We scheduled our visit to the island of Tahiti at the beginning of our three-island trip. That was a good decision. The hustle and bustle of Papeete was somewhat expected after just leaving Los Angeles, leaving us more time to just relax on the rest of the vacation.
MOOREA -- (March 23 to March 27th, 2005): Our flight on “Air Moorea” was only about 10 minutes long. Each plane accommodates around 15 people. It’s best to sit on the left hand side of the aircraft to get the views of the island as you approach the airport. However, the left side of these planes has only one sit. Since food was not sold at the airports we purchased ice cream bars for lunch while we waited for our transportation to our new lodging. The ride to the hotel took approximately 1 hour as several stops had to be made at other hotels. We were again the last stop on the list. Our destination was the Hotel Hibiscus, 27 kilometers east of the airport.
We choose the Hibiscus for two reasons: 1) We wanted to reduce the cost of lodging, and 2) We wanted to experience more of a traditional style bungalow and surroundings rather than the typical resort atmosphere. The facilities were clean but simple. Each bungalow contained a bed, drawers for clothing, shower, toilet, and a kitchenette with a refrigerator. Although we did not cook, the option was available. The fridge came in handy for keeping items cold that we bought at a nearby grocery. Most of the bungalows (29) are located under coconut trees with a few facing the beach. The property itself lies slightly above the beach behind a retaining wall. The bungalows went for a little over $100 per night. None of the bungalows were air conditioned, but had large overhead fans (above the beds). Each bungalow had its own “front porch”, but entry to the units was through a rear door. These facilities were adequate; however one needs to be prepared for mosquitoes in the early evening. The mosquitoes are out in numbers from 6:00 to 7:00 PM. After the first evening, having obtained several bits, we stocked up on insect spray from the local grocery. After that we had few problems.
The Hotel Hibiscus also furnishes air conditioned motel-type rooms, runs a restaurant, and has a small swimming pool. The beach and adjacent reef were interesting – it was the first time we got into the water (very warm and crystal clear). Having some snorkeling equipment would be helpful. These items were not rented by the hotel. Most of the bungalows were fully occupied, many with families from Europe who appeared to stay only in Moorea. On the weekend this stretch of beach also attracted some residents from nearby Tahiti – I suppose a weekend get away. Everyone was very friendly.
The hotel is located in an ideal location, not only for its water activities, but it resides next door to Le Petit Village Shopping Mall (bank, gas station, snack bars, restaurants and a grocery store). Everything we needed was in easy walking distance. The hotel is adjacent to Club Med, a large resort that was closed during our stay and does not appear to be opening again any time soon. The area would have been much more populated otherwise.
The first day (March 23rd) on Moorea was spent getting acquainted with the hotel facilities, walking to the shopping mall, getting some lunch and then just relaxing till dinner. We decided to eat out at a place 1 kilometer north of the hotel called Les Tipaniers’ (at Hotel Tipaniers). The food was good and reasonably priced for Tahiti standards. They specialize in Italian and seafood dishes. I would estimate our meals ran about 1,500 to 2,300 CFP per entrée. Again water was 400 CFP and many of the drinks ran about 700 CFP and up. We enjoyed the atmosphere and price at this place so much we returned another evening that week.
Our second day (March 24th) was spent taking a rather long bicycle ride back towards the airport, with the primary objective of obtaining additional Polynesian Francs before our departure to Bora Bora later that week. The branch bank at the Le Petit Village did not exchange money. We rented bikes from the hotel for 1,000 CFP per 8 hour day. We took off after breakfast – which we bought at the local grocery store (French bread, peanut butter, oranges, and pineapple juice – the more expensive “Painapo” brand) and headed back North. At first the trip was easy, but by later in the day the temperatures and high humidity made the journey arduous. The views along the road, in Opunohu and Cooks Bays were spectacular. Besides the bank in Maharepa, we made several stops for water, bought lunch at Snack Rotui (just west of the bridge at Paopao – head of Cook’s Bay) and at the “Fruit-Juice Factory” (Distillerie de Moorea). It’s at this location that the best pineapple juice I have ever had is made (Under the name of “Rotui” and called “Painapo” – They manufacture two varieties, this one being the best quality). It cost about 385 CFP per liter. We were exhausted by late afternoon and were very glad to eventually get back to the hotel. We took a quick swim in the lagoon and then got ready for dinner. By now we have learned to wear long pants since it protected our legs from the Mosquitos. It also felt good to get “dressed up” and out of the shorts. The trick is to get home by 5 pm and take a cold shower which will cool you down and prepare you for dressing up and dinner. The weather began to change with scattered showers as dusk approached – the first rain on our trip. It was not unwelcome for it substantially lowered the temperature.
For dinner we went to a very friendly restaurant called “Le Plantation”. By riding the “bus” called “Moorea Explorer” upon our arrival in Moorea (transportation to our hotel), we received a 10% off coupon that the management insisted we use. The waiters were great and the food was good, although slightly higher priced than the Les Tipaniers’. The entrées had a French influence. The atmosphere was nice. I would recommend this place, especially if you reside near the Le Petit Village. I noticed that a restaurant staff made several trips to pick up hotel customers at other establishments. Most restaurants offer the shuttle service free of charge.
The next day, Friday (March 25th) was set aside for just plan relaxing. We were in no rush to do anything since the weather was still unsettled. It had rained hard the previous night. After our normal breakfast (eating by the beach and feeding the fish) we took a long walk south along the waterfront and emerged back on the road after cutting through property belonging to Hotel Moorea Village. We came out slightly south of the Rotisserie Chicken Man. This small roadside stand (French owned) sells whole and half roasted chickens along with some side dishes (potatoes and drinks). We purchased a half chicken (600 CFP) and then proceeded back to the hotel, passing another grocery store where we bought (43 CFP) another long loaf of French bread. We sat at our bungalow as the rain began falling – something it did for the next several hours. Later that day we took a swim across the lagoon to a nearby island. It was cloudy, but not raining. Here we encountered numerous sting rays along with many brightly colored tropical fishes in the reefs. After swimming and a quick shower it was off to the Le Tipaniers for dinner again. The sky began to clear near sunset. Around 8:30 PM we decided to call it an evening and to bed we went.
Saturday, March 26th broke clear and with somewhat less humidity. It was another leisure day. Vy, my travel companion and partner developed a headache from the intense sun (and perhaps hectic past schedule) so most of the day was spent around the hotel. We did a little swimming, sleeping and reading. That evening we ended up at the hotel Restaurant known as the “Sunset”. It was time for a couple drinks before dinner while watching the setting sun. It was our last evening in Moorea.
The morning of Sunday, March 27th was spent packing, checking out of the hotel and continuing our journey to our third island. “Moorea Explorer” met us at 10:00 AM for transportation back to the airport for a flight to Bora Bora. Our airplane departed at 1:00 PM. Flight time was approximately 1 hour with a quick stop over on the island of Raiatea. The aircraft seated 50 or more people, not unlike many commuter twin turbo-prop planes flying routes in the United States. Carry-on luggage was limited to 1 item weighting less than 6 pounds. Obviously, our backpacks were over the limit and as such had to be checked into the cargo hold.
BORA BORA (March 27th to March 31): The best view of Bora Bora was again from the left side of the aircraft. Unfortunately, we did not have a cloudless sky. Showers, although not prevalent around Moorea, were common around Bora Bora. Nevertheless, we did see the blue lagoon and caught a quick view of our lodging destination – Le Meridien.
The airplane arrived on time, approximately 2:30 PM (March 27th). The airport for Bora Bora is located on a small motu off the northern tip of the main island. Passengers walk from the plane through the airport to a boat dock where transportation is provided to various hotels or Vaitape the main city. Each major resort has representatives who check you in, hand out luggage tags, and then wait till the luggage is off-loaded from the aircraft. When your luggage arrives it’s your responsibility to carry it a very short distance to labeled carts provided by hotel staff. At that point the hotel loads it into the corresponding boats. The Le Meridien also off-loaded the luggage upon our arrival at the hotel, about a 15 minute boat road to the southeast of the airport.
The open boat crossed the lagoon over multi-colored waters ranging from turquoise to a deep blue. The water depth varied from just a few feet to, I believe, over 30 feet. The clouds, present on our arrival, had dissipated. We approached the resort head-on with over water bungalows on both sides. The main dock is located just off the central beach. Walkways provide access to the reception desk, gift shop, restaurant, game room, rental area, and bar (Le MikiMiki). Staff drove us to the main lobby entrance by golf cart. Meanwhile our luggage departed on another cart to be delivered to our rooms. Upon our arrival at the main entrance, we climbed a mahogany flight of stairs to a reception area where we were handed tropical drinks. Here we provided basic information about our return flight and signed a guest registration. We then received a short tour of the main lodge facility after which we left for our over water bungalow via golf cart.
Our room was Number 222. It was better than we imagined. Upon opening the door (escorted by staff) we crossed the threshold and immediately encountered the glass floor. It was so clear that at first I was afraid to walk over the glowing turquoise water below. The bungalow was well laid out. Every inch of space was used efficiently. A TV (which had about 6 or so stations with CNN World News in English) and DVD player was immediately to the right of the entrance. A closet, containing drawers/shelves for clothes, and a combination safe was to the right of the TV. To the right of the entrance was a king bed with an overhead canopy of mosquito netting (not needed). Moving in a counter clockwise direction you found a small refrigerator (stocked full of drinks), a dressing table with mirrors, entrance to the outside deck through folding doors, and in the center of the room a coffee table (not movable) and coach. Behind the coach and separated by a wall, was the bathroom. The bathroom contained a large tub, two sinks (raised above a large counter), a shower and a separate toilet room. The high open exposed beam ceiling of the bungalow was in a pyramid shape – the center housing a large fan controlled from the bed. All windows were louvered and totally adjustable to allow maximum airflow, but at the same time keep out most rain squalls. The unit was air conditioned, but with the constant trade winds, we never turned it on. We understand the air conditioning would work with the windows open, but was disconnected if the front door or the porch door was left ajar. The shower stall was spacious.
Our deck contained two reclining lounge chairs with generous padding, covered with monogrammed towels. Between the chairs was a small table. Access directly to the water was possible by use of a winding set of stairs. At water level a small platform contained a cold shower allowing us to wash off after swimming. The deck provided views across part of the lagoon to other over water units. Mount Otemanu (on the island of Bora Bora) was not visible since our porch faced more southeast. Nevertheless, the view was still spectacular. In fact, after spending the first full day in the bungalow, we discovered we were ideally situated with a view of the rising sun along with its morning warmth. In the afternoon we were in the shade when the hottest temperatures occurred. Many of the units had the reverse effect. No matter what unit you are assigned too, be happy – they are all great! The over water bungalows are arranged in two distinct groups in a circular arch from either side of the main resort complex. Wooden walkways provide access. At night these are lighted making for a very esthetic scene. Our unit was a considerable distance from shore, but this never bothered us. The walk over turquoise waters, often filled with fish, was welcomed. In the center of each circular arch of over water bungalows was a maintenance building containing an ice machine that worked during our stay.
I might clarify that two new hotels are being constructed on either side of the Le Meridien. Noise, as suggested by some earlier visitors, was not a problem in our case. This construction was a considerable distance away. We heard some light tapping noises, but they are not of concern.
After getting acquainted with our lodging we decided to relax, take some photos, shower and get ready for our evening meal. Like many guests we dressed in long pants and a button-down shirt. However, some wore shorts. The atmosphere is semi-casual. The Le Meridien provides an excellent buffet, although it’s rather expensive. We originally planned to spend time on the main island of Bora Bora sampling different entrees and saving on expenses. However, after our first evening meal at the Le Meridien we changed our plan. Getting to the island of Bora Bora, although fairly easy (shuttle service is provided almost every ½ during the day and evening), the travel time, and arrangements for taxi service just did not justify the savings. I HIGHLY recommend you visit this one restaurant, La Vila Mahana (see March 30th), but the menus at most establishments could not compare to the selection at the Le Meridien.
The restaurant in Le Meridien is located below the main reception area and adjacent to an internal lagoon. Its design allows for plenty of air movement with sliding glass panels that can be closed for inclement weather. Overhead fans and the constant trade winds (with no mosquitoes) provide ample ventilation. Many of the tables are arranged along the water. In the evening the lights of the restaurant attract many fish including sea turtles. The staff is very friendly and was always there to provide service. When you arrive for dinner they explain the evening meal by taking you on a short tour. I would recommend you make reservation and arrive early (6:30 PM) to be sited by the water. The quantity and selection of food is amazing. I did not count, but would estimate that a dozen of different salads were available. Many of the dishes contain fresh fruit of the area. In addition, selection included a bread bar (again, many varieties), a hot bar (10 – 15 main entrees), and a desert bar (15-20 different sweets). We spent several hours dining, just sampling the food. I must admit that the deserts were sensational, by far the best part of the menu, and some of the best I have ever tasted. The salads were also excellent. The main entrees varied in quality, but in my opinion were all good, some better than others. We provided suggestions each evening on what we felt could be improved. One evening they also had large shrimp and oysters on the half shell. The restaurant structured their meals around a theme. For example, the first night of our stay was “Asian” night – all dishes prepared with an Asian flavor. Other evenings included, “Pacific Island”, “Fisherman (Seafood)”, and the evening we missed – “Mediterranean”. Now for the scary part -- As I mentioned these meal were expensive. Dinner, without a drink, ran 6,000 CFP/person ($70). Again, 1.5 liter of Vaimento water was available for 400 CFP. Even at this cost, I believe it was worth it, especially compared to the prices at other establishments, difficulty in getting there, and the lost time. Here we could just sit back, relax, and overlooking a spectacular lagoon. I looked forward to every meal – it was one of the more memorable parts of the stay. I might note you can also order individual entrees off a menu at the “Te Aar” a smaller restaurant connected to the main buffet area. They also serve a “Parisian breakfast” at lower costs. Evening meal service begins at 6:30 PM and continues till 9:30 PM.
After dinner we walked around the resort, took in the warm breezes, walked to the ocean side to hear the surf, and then returned to our bungalow for sleep. Upon opening the door we were greeted to an unexpected surprise. Maid service turned down the bed, gave us new towels, covered the glass floors with rugs, and placed Tiare flowers along with a small written story about local legends on the bed. It gets dark early, as I mentioned previously (around 6:15 PM). Most people seem to retire by 9:00 in the evening. The hotel provides entrainment in the form of Tahitian dancers on Tuesday and Friday nights. These shows (on the beach) begin about 9:00 PM and last till 10:00 PM. Photo sessions with the dancers are available afterwards. Otherwise, evening doings are up to you.
The weather on Monday, March 28th could not have been better. Scattered clouds welcomed the sun. I awoke around 5:30 AM and retired to the lounge chairs on the deck to watch the sunrise. Vy awoke shortly thereafter and we both sat admiring the view. After some picture taking, we showered and headed for breakfast. Again, this meal was complimentary. The restaurant opens at 6:45 AM. Meals are serviced till 10:00 AM. The breakfast was similar to those provided at the Le Meridian on Tahiti. Countless selections served in a buffet style. The price, if purchased separately, would cost each person about $35 or 3000 CFP. It’s possible to obtain snacks on the main island at a local grocery store/hardware (just to the left of the debarkation dock, right across from the newly built church). We used this option for our lunch meals, except for the last day where it was easier to purchase a pizza (1,800 CFP) from the hotel. Lunch at the Le Meridien is served adjacent to the swimming pool. Items can be ordered at the tables (from a menu) or carried out (“a emporter”).
After breakfast we caught the boat shuttle to the main island and rented bikes from Europcar (bike lock included). We pre-reserved these at the Le Meridien the day before. Europcar has a desk at Le Meridiens’ main island boat dock. The rental price was 1,700 for an 8 hour day. Rates are also available for a 4 hour period. We biked around the entire island turning south and circling in a clockwise direction. The entire trip took about 5 hours. We made a limited number of stops since many of the stores were closed due to the Easter holiday. A side trip at the highpoint of the road, just a few kilometers south, is worth the visit. Follow the jeep track to the right at the top of the ridge to a large black rock, called “Hiro’s rock” (not very far – you will have to walk the bike). You get great views of the island and surrounding lagoon. You can continue your journey down this old road to Fitiiu Point to view the remains of an American 7-inch gun left over from World War II, something we did not do that day. Our journey was interrupted by a few stops at local stores for juice and water. We also stopped at one roadside stand for a fried banana Danish-type roll which we ate later in the day. Lunch was purchased at the only snack bar/restaurant open (L’Appetisserie). Two hot sandwichs and drinks set us back about 1,200 CFP/person. After lunch, we retuned to the boat dock for our return trip to the resort.
Tuesday, March 29th was again sunny and warm, or should we say hot. The temperature climbed to 92 degrees. After breakfast and a leisurely stroll around the resort, we went back to the main island for some lunch supplies. These we brought back to the resort. Shortly thereafter we secured an outrigger canoe (free of charge) and paddled out into the lagoon and an adjoining small motu (island/sand bar) where we had lunch under the coconut trees. As it turned out this motu had other visitors (dropped off by another resort) on a day trip. We suspect that this was a pearl farm motu. Later we continued exploring by taking the canoe further north to another more secluded motu with a small bay filled with sting rays. The afternoon was fantastic with some unexpected surprises. Our trip ended around 4:30 PM, just in time to get ready for dinner and relax the evening away.
Wednesday, March 30th was spent at the resort, beginning to anticipate our journey home on the 31st. We went to a sea turtle feeding around 10:00 AM and then walked along the ocean side of the motu to see the exposed reef. Dinner that evening was the highlight of the day. We had decided, when we first got to Tahiti, to make reservations at a highly rated restaurant on Bora Bora -- La villa Mahana. It’s located on the eastern shore, just north of the famous “Bloody Mary’s”. No sign marks the restaurants location, but it’s on a side street behind “OPEC” (a black pearl shop). I have eaten at many establishments around the United States (such as Flagstaff in Boulder, CO and Eiffel Tower in Las Vegas, NV) and can safely say this was the best meal ever. Our transportation from the Le Meridian boat dock was arranged by the restaurant. At the dock a taxi was waiting to deliver us right to the door. The cost (3,000 CFP) was added to our meal price.
The restaurant atmosphere was simply fantastic. Only 6 tables are served in a “Mediterranean” designed court yard which was lit with yellow string lights and serenaded with soft French and English music. Our table was the only one on the upper level which was two stories above and overlooked all the others. The chef presented the menu and specialties for the evening. I had an appetizer -- creamy risotto with shaved parmesan cheese and asparagus that was just divine and a beef-tenderloin in red wine sauce. Vy had a fresh seafood salad and coconut-curry crusted mahi-mahi. For desert we got chocolate cake with Tiare ice cream and banana/pineapple flambé with vanilla ice cream. Tiare being the native flower of Tahiti. After dinner the taxi was awaiting us for our return to the boat dock. We finished the evening by admiring the thousands of stars overhead. I HIGHLY recommend this restaurant to those visiting Bora Bora. You will not be disappointed. The price is expensive, for two of us, without wine, was 24,000 CFP or $ 275.00 (US).
Thursday, March 31st was our last day on Bora Bora. Our mode of operations changed little – eating breakfast, lounging on our bungalow deck, photo taking, and eventually eating lunch. As I pointed out previously, we ordered a pizza from the snack bar adjacent to the swimming pool. We took this back to the room. With a glass of “Painapo” pineapple juice it was a perfect “feast”. We then got ready for our departure, scheduled for 4:00 PM. Our check-out time was 2:00 PM. Staff collected our luggage and we proceeded to arrange final payments. We played pool in the game room and then went down to the dock to board the boat. Fifteen minutes later we arrived at the small airport, checked in for boarding passes, and climbed aboard for our return to Papeete as the sun began to set behind Mount Otemanu. One hour later we were back in Tahiti (Faa’a Airport). We had several hours to kill before departure (10:00 PM) but not enough time to catch a ride into town. We caught a bit to eat (sandwiches) at an airport restaurant, and talked to a few of the other passengers on our flight. Approximately 30 minutes prior to departure we went through security and boarded Air Tahiti Nui to Los Angeles.
RETURNING HOME (April 1, 2005): The flight back to LAX was long and not something I would like to exactly repeat. I always seem to have problems with night flights. Sleep was not in the cards. I was worn out, run-down and not feeling too well by the time the plane touched down (8:00 AM). You might say I was on the verge of motion sickness. It seemed to take forever to get unloaded and getting back through customs and immigration was much longer than expected. My first objective was getting something in my stomach and a short walk in the fresh air. Things settled down shortly thereafter, and then the wait began for our connecting flight on United Airlines back to Chicago. That flight departed in the late afternoon and arrived on schedule to rainy and cool weather. From Chicago we had a 2 hour drive back to Milwaukee – HOME.
From our departure by boat on Bora Bora to opening the front door of my home – 32 hours elapsed. We traveled from one hemisphere to another, across 4 time zones, and a world apart in climate, but getting into bed that night I was glad we went. It had been 20 years since my last adventure to Tahiti. A lot had changed – Tahiti had grown up and so had I.
The End
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#514 - 04/21/05 08:40 AM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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rodjune
Expert Advisor
Registered: 07/08/03
Posts: 1726
Loc: Kalama Valley, HI
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Phenomenal report! Thank you.
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#515 - 04/21/05 09:03 AM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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CalBerry
Member
Registered: 04/08/05
Posts: 178
Loc: San Francisco
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Agree. I sat on the couch with my laptop on my lap and read your report out loud to my wife word for word last night. It was almost like being there. (I could have had her read it herself, but it was more fun sharing it this way.)
Thanks for sharing!
Steve
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#516 - 04/21/05 09:08 AM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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lizardlady
Member
Registered: 06/05/04
Posts: 257
Loc: Iowa
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Loved your report! I agree, it did make me feel like I was there. Now if I can only figure out how to travel that lightly, I would be in good shape.
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#517 - 04/21/05 09:11 AM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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CalBerry
Member
Registered: 04/08/05
Posts: 178
Loc: San Francisco
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Agree. I sat on the couch with my laptop on my lap and read your report out loud to my wife word for word last night. It was almost like being there. (I could have had her read it herself, but it was more fun sharing it this way.)
Thanks for sharing!
Steve
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#518 - 04/21/05 03:54 PM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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Patti.
Expert Advisor
Registered: 03/28/04
Posts: 2460
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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lizardlady~ you can travel almost that lightly very easily. You just have to be real smart about what you pack. We only took 2 (1 each) 22" rolling suitcases, and one (each) carry on bag with us. We probably weren't at 50-60 pounds total. We had 10 books, snorkle gear, a bottle of booze, a carton of cigs, and tons of snacks, a camera, a digital camera, a digital camcorder, extra film and batteries, besides our clothes! The main plan is....Don't bring lots of clothes! Bring enough for 3 days. That's really all you need. You need to get over the idea that you have to wear different clothes everyday. YOU DON'T! Bring super lightweight stuff that washes easily and dries quickly and folds up very small in your luggage. Don't bring the big bulky clothes! Nike dri-sphere stuff is great. Columbia sportswear also makes lots of great lightweight, quick dry clothes. I basically wore those Hawaiian print bathing suit coverup sun dresses all the time. They are so lightweight, they take up no room at all. They work as a coverup with your swimsuit during the day and as a sun dress for the evenings. My husband wore his swim trunks all day and brought only a pair of shorts and 3 shirts for the evenings. Don't bring lots of shoes! A pair of flip flops and a pair of water shoes should cover it just fine. Don't bring lots of shampoos etc. Get the small travel size of any products you use. Rely on the hotels for the shampoos and lotions and such. DON'T bring any makeup!!!! You simply don't need it! Bring pills and such in the small little 2 pack travel size. Yes, they're more expensive that way, but they take up so little room. We ate the snacks, and left the books at the hotel, drank the booze and smoked the cigs, so we had a ton of room to bring stuff home with us!
And....JS~ I LOVED your trip report! It was so in depth and informative. I agree with the others...It read as if I were right there with you. Excellent job!
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#519 - 04/21/05 06:50 PM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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JS
Junior Member
Registered: 04/17/05
Posts: 7
Loc: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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Thanks folks (Rodjune,Calberry,lizardlady,LasVegasPatti). When you write these things you never know if they hit the mark. My partner is writing up another section to add to this. I hope it will be up soon.
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#520 - 06/03/05 06:39 AM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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BBlover
Member
Registered: 08/01/04
Posts: 54
Loc: New York
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thank you so much for taking the time to write this. we leave in 11 days, and we are staying at the Le Meridian in both Tahiti and Bora Bora. Your trip report was amazing and it renewed my excitement even more (didn't think that was possible!!)
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#521 - 06/05/05 05:41 PM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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JS
Junior Member
Registered: 04/17/05
Posts: 7
Loc: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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Thanks BBlover for the note. I'm posting a companion article that you may find of interest. It's my partners work. It covers some of the same topics but from a different angle.
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#522 - 06/20/05 07:40 PM
Re: Trip Report (March 19-April1)
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JS
Junior Member
Registered: 04/17/05
Posts: 7
Loc: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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My partners work is now posted. Note that it contains tips and tricks that we learned from our experiences. Be sure to read all the replys especially from the author. It can be found in the folder "Money, Weather, Visa, Bugs ..." and is listed as "Trip Advice - March 19 to April 1".
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