#77413 - 10/31/08 09:36 AM
Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
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Wannago
Member
Registered: 08/21/08
Posts: 70
Loc: California
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Fakarava; 3rd stop: We saved the best for last, and stayed 4 nights at the Raimiti at the far south end of the lagoon of Fakarava, about a 1 hour (some 60 km’s) boat ride from the airport. (I arranged this direct by email, faxing the necessary authority for credit card charges.) After arriving at the airport, we were met by a Raimiti rep in a van, and we and a French couple were driven to the main pier. We got in an uncovered boat for the ride to Raimiti Resort and arrived just at noon. With the wind blowing so hard, the very rough ride took 1.5 hrs as the pilot, Junior, hugged the shoreline in the small boat to avoid the bigger waves in the lagoon. The lagoon around Raimiti was calmer, and we were glad we were in the lagoon side bungalows.
The one ocean side bungalow was occupied by a couple who reported they didn’t dare open the windows due to the wind. That is not a problem on the lagoon side bungalows, since there are no windows or doors to open or close. We liked it that way, and a slight breeze cooled us every night. Probably due to the wind, or whatever, mosquitoes were not a problem, though no-see-ums gave us a bunch of little red dots around our ankles. At twilight, before we walked down to dinner, we sprayed our legs and arms lightly with “OFF!” It seemed to help.
We were made to feel instantly welcome by Elvina. There were three French couples, an Italian couple and us. My tiny knowledge of Tahtian was well received, and I continued to pick up some new words. During our stay two of the French couples left, and two others arrived. The new arrivals were much more animated than the first two, and we all got along famously. One of the Italians could speak French, both spoke English, so our group communicated very well, especially with the new arrivals, who spoke more English. Our final day at the pass was hilarious as we had all warmed up to each other. By then, I was picking up some French and Italian, getting confused, and I wished I knew more French. We had great sport with our collective language deficiencies, all in good spirit. We had fun with national rivalries, and we parted fast friends.
Those more eloquent than I have extolled the beauty and experience of staying at Raimiti. I can only second that and report that my wife and I give it two enthusiastic thumbs up. With a caveat. Those considering Raimiti should do their homework well. It is definitely not for everyone. We are in our mid 60’s reasonably active, but climbing in and out of the boats was sometimes a challenge. It is very remote, and with no electricity, sundown comes quickly. Lanterns are nice, but shed little light in reality. It is a quaint, romantic, remote existence. Eric told us of a couple that got on the boat and immediately asked where the shopping and pizza parlor was. He said he put them off the boat, gave them their money back and told them to stay off his island. Some people just don’t do their homework.
The food is so surprising, as many have reported. Very high quality. Our chef was Madu, who could not be enticed to make an appearance. Eric says she is too shy. We were enthralled with the meals. The vegetables were exquisite (Elvina told me they come mostly from the islands of Tahiti and Moorea). Some of the more memorable dishes were visheyswa, banana fritters, crab bisque, Quiche Lorraine, chocolate covered crepes, tuna ka-bob, crème Brule, giant croutons, and apple tart with ice cream. How do they do it????
Our little bungalow was just fine for us. A flashlight is provided in each bungalow in addition to the two lanterns. The lamp gets you out to the bathroom after dark. They provide soap, and we had our vials of shampoo. Eric announced that by the first week or so of November (2008) he will have hot water to the showers. But cold water showers are not that bad. Actually refreshing. Especially after snorkeling, and the water has warmed a little during the day.
Eric was having motor trouble with the big boat, which curtailed our snorkeling and excursions a bit the first two days. But we got to drift the pass twice, which was just awesome, and one of the main reasons we stayed at Raimiti. We visited Tetamanu Village three times, but one time the current was too rough to allow snorkeling outside the “fish pond.” We also enjoyed the pink beach a couple of times, and a little hike in a “bird island.” In between excursions, we lounged around our bungalow, napping, reading and enjoying the solitude and tranquility.
The night skies were stunning, and several of us used the astronomy book in the dining room library to pick out some constellations. Laughing and gesturing, we learned together the French, Italian, and English name for the Milky Way. The moon didn’t come up until midnight or so, and the stars were incredible. Sigh, I get all misty eyed just thinking about it again.
During our visit to the “fish pond” one day, they were cleaning some fish. This attracted many fish, but also 2 or 3 very large Napoleon Wrasse, and a very large Moray Eel that even had the Tahitians backing up in the knee deep water. Of course several black tipped reef sharks were also circling. Very exciting.
I could go on and on about Raimiti, but it is well covered in the forum. We love the “sauvage” experience, but don’t recommend it to all. You have to have the right frame of mind and spirit of adventure. We loved Raimiti, and waved sadly as guests and staff stood out on the pier waving and shouting na-na’s, as Eric carried us north in the big boat to our scheduled departure. The lagoon was smooth, not the rough introduction that had greeted us 5 days before. Fakarava is a beautiful atoll. We hope to return there some day.
End: Our plane left Fakarava at about 4:30 PM, arriving at PPT about 6 PM. 4 hours to the 10 PM departure to LA. It became apparent that I should have factored in some shopping time in our itinerary, as most of the shops in the airport were closed. Wife was a bit frustrated. The restaurant upstairs at the airport was closed, and the café did not look very appetizing. So we changed clothes in the airport restrooms, got a taxi (1,300 CFP) over to the InterContinental hotel for an expensive but good ala carte dinner, then back to the airport, and waited for departure. The flight was not quite full, and we enjoyed all four seats in the center section; two for her, two for me. Slept well with a little help from some prescription ambien I’d gotten from my doctor.
Now at home in Central California, I don’t want to watch TV. I stare at the night sky imagining stars that are blotted out by ambient light. I mope around trying to do something constructive, but soon loose focus and drift into daydreams of Caroline’s sweet, cherubic smile, Elvina’s quick and infectious laugh, beaches, palm trees and floating with the current in a clear blue ocean looking down at nature’s wonders.
Tahitian flu is devastating, and can only be cured by returning for the 4th trip to FP.
Bill in California
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#77415 - 10/31/08 10:03 AM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: Wannago]
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Patti.
Expert Advisor
Registered: 03/28/04
Posts: 2460
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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Wow! Great report. I was a bit curious as you started off your stay on Tikehau and Manihi and ending at Raimiti...I was curious to see how it would compare considering you enjoyed your pension stay on Tikehau. It was nice to see you still enjoyed your stay at Raimiti. Funny that the least enjoyable part of your stay seemed to be the hotel portion.....and you totally loved the pension experience.
As you say, Raimiti, and the other pensions, are not for everyone. People absolutely have to do their homework to know what they are getting themselves in
to. But...if you are the type that enjoys the remote, quiet, adventurous yet simple experience....and can live without all the creature comforts of home....you just can't beat it.
Those big Napoleon fish are amazing, aren't they?
It's funny that you can't watch TV now. LOL! We couldn't even stand the noise and population on Moorea after our stay at Raimiti. I don't think I've ever not enjoyed myself on Moorea....but it was very difficult after our 5 nights at Raimiti. It took me almost a month to mentally get back into civilazation. I would dream I was at Raimiti every night for almost 3 weeks. All night long....every dream I had was based at Raimiti. Honestly, I wasn't sure the dreams would stop.
Again, I loved your trip report. I am going to go check out your pictures now. Something tells me I'm going to be dreaming about Raimiti tonight! :-) Thanks!
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#77416 - 10/31/08 10:17 AM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: Patti.]
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Patti.
Expert Advisor
Registered: 03/28/04
Posts: 2460
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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Oh man...oh man...oh man....Just finished looking at yur pictures....Now I have Raimiti in my head again. Your pictures bring back so many memories of that place!
Great pics and great trip report. I loved it all. I haven't been to Tikehau and Manihi yet.....but probably someday....
Sooo...where are you thinking of going next time? That Tahitian flu sure does get you, doesn't it?
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#77418 - 10/31/08 12:07 PM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: Patti.]
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Old Wife
Expert Advisor
Registered: 02/21/03
Posts: 2369
Loc: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
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Oh, wow, great (2) trip reports & photos. Sigh. I want us to retire now & move there (I know, almost impossible). The pension in Tikehau looks wonderful! Too bad you had such a windy time there. I remember our OWB on Bora Bora with the strong winds and how it did affect the enjoyment (though I'd rather be on a windy deck there than back here with snow!).
Thanks for taking the time to write that all out. Just looking at the photos & reading about it makes my body relax. I need an FP fix!
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#77420 - 10/31/08 02:15 PM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: Old Wife]
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vaitape
Expert Advisor
Registered: 02/09/02
Posts: 1387
Loc: socal
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Well done Bill and mauruuru roa!!! Photos are terrific.... Got the flu BAD!!!!
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#77423 - 10/31/08 03:19 PM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: vaitape]
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marshamouse
Advisor
Registered: 03/01/04
Posts: 529
Loc: Boise, Idaho
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Yep, there's nothing like being on a remote motu with nothing to do but relax, swim, eat, snorkel, eat, relax, look at the stars, eat, with all that beautiful scenery to transfix you. 2009 trip won't be here soon enough.
Thanks for the great reports.
Edited by marshamouse (10/31/08 03:20 PM)
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#77440 - 10/31/08 07:35 PM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: marshamouse]
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holte
Expert Advisor
Registered: 11/19/04
Posts: 2417
Loc: Duluth, Minnesota
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Fabulous report and great pictures. I almost felt I was there, but it's hard when I know that soon the ugly four-letter words will be happening here (snow, cold)
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#77441 - 10/31/08 07:46 PM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: holte]
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YosemiteGirl2
Member
Registered: 09/17/07
Posts: 373
Loc: California
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What a wonderful trip report! I'm so glad you had a fabulous time.
Now of course, I'm kicking myself in the butt for going to Fiji a few weeks ago, when I could have gone to Raimti instead. I want to go to Raimti!! I avoided dengue in Fiji but have an acute case of Tahitian flu instead.
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#77453 - 11/01/08 11:47 AM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: YosemiteGirl2]
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vaitape
Expert Advisor
Registered: 02/09/02
Posts: 1387
Loc: socal
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YosemiteGirl2, where did you stay in Fiji?
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#77456 - 11/01/08 03:38 PM
Re: Tuamotu Trek - Tikehau, Manihi, Fakarava - Part 2
[Re: Wannago]
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Wannago
Member
Registered: 08/21/08
Posts: 70
Loc: California
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Thanks to all of you for the kind comments. I just hope adding to the collective knowlege here will help another traveler some time. In general, we will be looking at pensions in the future for our travels to FP. Not just a cost factor, though that is significant, but also a style choice. The big hotels just seem too institutional to us anymore. There will be exeptions, I'm sure. But our first experience with pensions was very positive.
We were frustrated by high winds at Manihi Pearl, but our one time in the water confirmed that snorkeling there is A+.
When I get started on our next trip, I'll be relying on current posts here to guide me. A great travel forum.
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