#77669 - 11/16/08 05:37 PM
Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
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vaitape
Expert Advisor
Registered: 02/09/02
Posts: 1387
Loc: socal
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Here is the report for the last 2 legs of our FP island hopping trip this past June and July. Thank you Patti for giving me a kick to get this finished!
HUAHINE: As many folks know, our most favorite place in the world is Huahine. The island makes us think about what the South Pacific was like 20-30 years ago. It is not developed to the level of Bora, Moorea, and of course Tahiti. Fare town is quaint in its rustic way and the wharf with its roulottes, fishing boats, and kids playing and jumping into the lagoon is so peaceful and special for us.
We stay at the Te Tiare, not just because of the unique and perfect beauty of its setting and the huge bungalows and lovely, well-tended gardens but most especially for the warm hospitality of the staff. Managers come and go but the staff remains fairly constant and so do our experiences there. Corny though it may sound, we feel we are welcomed like returning family and we keep up with the what’s what with kids, dancing and canoeing competitions, who is catching what fish, etc. It works for us and really adds to our lives.
Ok, that said….we arrived from Raiatea in time for Heiva on Huahine………WOW!!! Many of our hotel friends belong to the dance and singing association in Fitii. Competition between villages is fierce but friendly. We attended several dance performances at the Heiva grounds set up at the soccer stadium between the airport and Fare. What a fabulous time seeing our friends in their costumes with their families all gathered together for the festivities. Game arcades, craft booths, and roulottes are all there on the grounds and tons of families meet and mingle. Walking down the street in Fare, we saw the equivalent of the county fair happening. Crops were being weighed and winners declared…pretty exciting to see our friends with their entries winning awards.
We went to meet American Rande and his Tahitian wife Emere and to have a look at their bungalows on our visit this time…….mostly because of OldWife’s trip reports. They are a really nice couple with a fabulous setting and 2 vacation rentals. The 1-bedroom and 2-bedroom bungalows are well-equipped, each have washing machines, screens on the windows, and are positioned to take advantage of the prevailing breezes. Rande has a cool open-air shack (hence Rande’s Shack?) right above his little patch of beach where there are hammocks, picnic table and BBQ. The snorkeling off his property is terrific as are the sunsets. Bali Hai Beach and Fare town are just a short walk away along the water’s edge. Bikes are gratis. We are seriously considering staying here on our next visit……perhaps with a Te Tiare hit factored in at the end!!!!
New Snack Temarara (sp?) still has the best Poisson Cru in all of FP (TRULY) and COLD Hinanos. Super Fare Nui is a well-stocked market, complete with a new deli and butcher case!!! Good selection of wines there as well. Like most places in FP, get there early for fresh baguettes.
And, for the first time in all of our visits, the manta rays came at night to feed around the underwater lights at the Te Tiare restaurant….amazingly graceful ballets perform by the two mantas….awesome!
PAPEETE: We were sad to leave our friends and the island of Huahine but we knew we would be back soon and there were some new experiences on the horizon for us. We spent 2 nights again at the Sheraton Tahiti. Again we were nicely looked after by the staff and Rooms Manager Christophe Maudet. We enjoyed the sunsets and view of Moorea from the Sheraton’s manmade beach. We shopped at Le Gran Marche and the Champion close to the Sheraton (has the cheapest Monoi oil we’ve found as well as a very good selection of wines!). Had our noodle fix at Snack Meneme, spaghetti Bolognese at Lou’s, and split a hefty T-bone and Idaho potato at the Roulottes. And again, we really enjoyed the dancing couples in the bar at the Sheraton to finish off the evenings.
Didn’t rent a car or do much around-the-island stuff this visit. Just took it easy and enjoyed the flavors of Papeete. We did meet some interesting yacht people and were fascinated with the stories of their crossings.
RURUTU: Well, YosemiteGirl2’s trip report on this little island in the Australs archipelago about 350 miles south of Tahiti had us curious. So, to finish off our MAJOR BIRTHDAY TOUR of FP, off we went for a 7 night stay at Rurutu Lodge. Our host was Bertrand Verichon who is new to hotel management but quickly learning on how to be a great host! Rosette helps out in Reception and is a big asset to the Lodge, keeping the more domestic issues sailing smoothly.
The 5 duplex bungalows are equipped with a double bed and a twin bed, small desk and chair, and a clothes cupboard (with extra nice and fluffy blankets which we did use several nights!). The beds are new, the housekeeping immaculate, and we were quite comfortable. We found the bathtub/showering set-up just as YosemiteGirl2 described but with some finesse, we managed. The bungalows face a grove of casuarinas with beach views and the sand just a few steps away. The dining room, living room with large screen TV for DVD viewing, and bar are in a large fare-like bungalow that is very comfortable and inviting. Some nights we thought that a fireplace would be even more inviting but of course there would be a major fire hazard!
The beach is amazing…….white sand, heaps of shells and flotsam and jetsam. We walked the beach to the airport daily for exercise and never tired of it….really different from any other beach we’ve visited in FP. I loved the beach there…….not a swimming or snorkeling one but more for roaming and reflecting. The sunsets were absolutely spectacular………and at times we felt like we were the only people on the island……we were quite moved by the natural beauty and the unspoiled remoteness of our surroundings.
We did purchase the meal plan because in truth, there ain’t no other place to eat!!! The young chef Teoro prepares fish island style and good chicken as well. Meals are not fancy but always 3 courses, delicious and filling, and nicely presented. Vincent is the head of the dining room and is very serious about his table presentations. Breakfasts are a bit minimal with baguette, butter, pommelmouse, tea and coffee daily but we supplemented with fresh yogurt from the island’s dairy and jams bought from the shop in the village. We also purchased cheese, canned pate, and some other snacks, beer and wine from any of the 3 shops in Moreai, the main village. Bertrand goes daily and we could always hitch a ride with him. There is a post office, bank, and 2 ATMs as well as a clinic, school, and a lovely church.
Besides its more temperate climate, Rurutu has something else that sets it apart from the islands in the Tuamotus, Marquesas, and Societies that we’ve visited. There are white walls lining the villages’ roads and some tracks and at frequent intervals, there are cement picnic tables and benches along the waterside. Throughout the day and early evening, these tables provide a venue for ukulele practice, card playing, eating (duh!), gossiping etc.
Horses are a popular means of transport in some communities. Often eating spots are found on the terraces of private homes which is quite common in the rural areas of the islands we visited like Tahaa and Raiatea. The accent on the island is different….more singsong…..and we were told that it comes from the island’s mountainous topography which makes for an interesting folk tale!
Rurutu is an agricultural island and there are taro fields everywhere. The island is home to a dairy as I mentioned before. Also, many folks fish. Another “industry” is weaving...the Australs are known for their baskets, hats, floor coverings, you name it and they weave it! Very distinctive. Much of the basketry, etc found in the Gran Marche in Papeete is made in the Australs.
But the main touristic draw besides wandering off the beaten track is the opportunity to snorkel with the whales and their calves from late July through November. YosemiteGirl2 and her family had a FANTASTIC experience last year (I think, am I correct YG2?) but she went later in the season. We knew we were rushing it a little but we went as our itinerary permitted. It was very windy the first several days and no whale sightings. On day 3, off my husband went with the excursion as he did for the following 3 days. They were able to get very close to the whales on 2 occasions but no one had the opportunity to get in the water. Though disappointed, we were prepared. And the several other tourists on the excursions (all French families from Tahiti) were gracious as well. Bertrand told us that there are little to no rooms available at the few (I think there are only about 5-6 on the island) pensiones from mid-August to late October because many groups come for the whales.
We missed Heiva on Rurutu BUT, the dancing and singing association in the village Avera held a mini Heiva of its own. MAN, what an experience!!! Bertrand took all his guests in the Land Rover for the afternoon/early evening. The dancing was more like a pageant…..the singing, dancing, and music continued for almost 60 minutes without pause. IslandBoyatHeart would have gone nuts with the fabulous and interesting ukuleles and guitars and drums!!! The style and sound was very distinctive and different from any other island’s. From what we were told, the group from Avera village placed second in the main Heiva in Papeete…..they are great!! We truly enjoyed ourselves and were made very welcome by the village residents.
So, there you have it……when it was time to leave, Betrand took us to the airport and helped us get through check-in without having to pay for overages (we were often way over but never charged…..go figure!) and to have a few beers with us while we waited. The plane was late, actually almost 2 hours late so be aware of this possibility when scheduling……..we had almost 5 hours between our scheduled arrival in PPT and our ATN departure to LAX....but a chunk of that was eaten up so we had just a comfortable wait rather than a long one but I would not schedule it any differently, that’s for sure!
And as an unexpected bonus, we had a fabulous time at the Rurutu airport snack while waiting for the flight. The airport snack is a popular locals hangout….the woman who owns the snack books a group (many of the same musicians performed at the Avera post-Heiva event) to play when the airport is open (I think 3-4 days a week there are flights). Man oh man, can those people sing! And of course dance. Hinanos were being served and consummed at a furious pace…..what can I say other than a waaaaay good time was had by all….. Mauruuru to the best singer in all of the islands James Tetaa ITAE!
Rurutu is a very special place. The experiences we enjoyed make for wonderful memories and who knows, maybe someday we can return for more music and whales and friendly folks!
For more information on Rurutu, visit the island’s website at rurutu.pf/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogsection&id=6&Itemid=28
Hopefully I've copied the website correctly.
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#77670 - 11/16/08 07:13 PM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: vaitape]
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Old Wife
Expert Advisor
Registered: 02/21/03
Posts: 2369
Loc: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
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Great trip report, vaitape. Now you have me wanting to visit Ruturu! There's always some new place to go and see, isn't there? Glad you met Rande and Emere and are considering staying there next time you're on Huahine. They get their business from word-of-mouth (I think they figure they'll get nice people that way!).
I've the FP flu really bad tonight ;-)
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#77671 - 11/16/08 07:21 PM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: Old Wife]
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holte
Expert Advisor
Registered: 11/19/04
Posts: 2417
Loc: Duluth, Minnesota
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Great report, vaitape! How are the fires where you live? We leave Dec. 20. The weather wasn't so bad here until today-ugly white stuff- so reading about Huahine helped.
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#77672 - 11/16/08 07:33 PM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: holte]
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vaitape
Expert Advisor
Registered: 02/09/02
Posts: 1387
Loc: socal
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thanks you 2! The fires in our county are under control, thanks for asking. Glad we live closer to the ocean than in the foothills. It has been very warm here, super scarey on Thurs and Fri for sure. The poor folks to the south of us are in a world of misery though........very concerned for them.
I need to make a correction......and BIG apologies......it is VICTOR, not Vincent who keeps the Rurutu Lodge dining room in casual elegance.......I feel terrible about that!
Sorry about your flu, Old Wife......awful isn't it? Will be in touch after the holidays re-tips on Canada. Not sure what next year has in store for us but your info will be very valuable........thanks in advance.
Holte, have a wonderful time!!! Someday we will be there at the same time......look out Fare!
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#77675 - 11/17/08 06:45 AM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: vaitape]
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Jake
Member
Registered: 08/29/03
Posts: 311
Loc: Phoenix AZ
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Thanks for the great report. Like you, Huahine is our favorite destination. We too feel like we are rejoining family when we return to Te Tiare. Our FP flu symptoms have just spiked up after reading your comments.
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#77676 - 11/17/08 08:48 AM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: Jake]
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Patti.
Expert Advisor
Registered: 03/28/04
Posts: 2460
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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Thanks Vai...great report! I've been waiting all fall for the last installment...I finally figured I should say soemthing. :-) That's for jumping on it so fast.
I really need to get to Huahine someday. It's on my list. But I'm almost afraid to go. I love Moorea...and now I love Raimiti (Fakarava)...I'm afraid if I go to Huahine....I will love it so much...then I won't be able to decide where to go in the future...Moorea...Huahine...Raimiti...so many places...so little time...so little money. :-(
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#77710 - 11/18/08 01:06 PM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: Patti.]
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marshamouse
Advisor
Registered: 03/01/04
Posts: 529
Loc: Boise, Idaho
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Thanks, Vaitape, for the great report. We are like you. After reading all these raves about Huahine, we are considering adding another week to our trip next year to stay there. Rande's Shack sounds like a good place - we need to be on or near the beach and good snorkeling is a must for us. We are such beach bums. Just give us a nice beach for walking and snorkeling and we're content. Fare sounds like a bonus. We love laid back. Thanks again for the whole report. Rurutu sounds enticing also.
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#77728 - 11/19/08 09:20 PM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: marshamouse]
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Suki (689)
Senior Advisor
Registered: 10/29/07
Posts: 920
Loc: ELA US of A
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30 days in FP now that iz my dream only done 7 days with 4 day stopover in hawaii 3 times HA airlines my favorite. Huahine awesome Parea ITI southside pension maurii Moorea ClubMed location great too bad closed Fakarava/Raimiti june 2009 next you are right Patti just like Poehere all da time +++++++FP4LIFE++++++
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#77729 - 11/19/08 09:27 PM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: Suki (689)]
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Suki (689)
Senior Advisor
Registered: 10/29/07
Posts: 920
Loc: ELA US of A
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Go Boise ST utah will lose BCS spot you must add AS MANY ISLANDS AS YOU CAN IF YOU GOT DA $$$$ and da time 1nt Tahiti 6nts Maupiti 7nts huahine 4nts Moorea and 10 nts on Raimiti 3nts in hawaii all at pensions not quite there yet but we can dream about it ~~~~~~~~~~~FP4LIFE~~~~~~~~
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#77731 - 11/20/08 08:15 AM
Re: Summer 2008 in FP: Part 4: Huahine-Tahiti-Rurutu
[Re: Suki (689)]
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Pago
Member
Registered: 12/10/05
Posts: 189
Loc: Ohio
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what language is this guy...suki..trying to speak!;.' ;
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