#84278 - 02/10/10 09:03 PM
Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
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Patti.
Expert Advisor
Registered: 03/28/04
Posts: 2376
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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One tropical depression and one cyclone later, I think I'm going to have to reconsider my opinion of the weather in French Polynesia in Feb. LOL! Maybe it's not such a good time of the year to go after all. Guess I got lulled into a false sense of security by the relatively good weather of my 4 previous Feb trips. The bad weather on this trip MORE than made up for all good weather we had experienced on the previous trips. In our previous 36 days in Feb, we had one day that was a complete washout, and 2 days that were half washed out....all the rest of the days were okay...with the weather ranging from sunny to cloudy, with light showers scattered here and there...but still able to do all the touristy type stuff most days. On this trip...out of fourteen days... we had two days of mostly sunshine, four days of heavy cloud cover and scattered showers, 2 days that were half washed out by rain... AND.....six days of rain, wind, tropical depression/cyclone and/or other assorted crappy weather.
BUT....we still had a great time! I think if it had been my first time, I would have disappointed in the weather. But we've been so many times, and really had no plans to do any of the touristy stuff, so it wasn't a huge issue for us. And honestly, the novelty of the cyclone actually made it kinda fun and exciting.
This years strong El Nino is not only playing havoc with the weather in Tahiti, but at home as well. We left Las Vegas with horrible weather....a week of solid rain. We were worried about even being able to make our connection at LAX because the previous day the nasty weather all up and down the west coast had caused serious delays in the flights out of Vegas. But we were able to easily make our flight with no delays at all. We flew Air France for the first time and I must say I was rather impressed. In some ways we thought it was superior to Air Tahit Nui. In other ways, we preferred ATN. But overall, I don't think one is terribly different than the other, so if you did have to choose between them, the final decision should be based on which has the better price and dates.
Air France has better food, great little individual bottles of wine with your meals, Heineken (instead of Hinano). All rows had foot rests. A great individual entertainment system (far superior to that of ATN). And the stewardesses change outfits to the long Polynesian dresses like they do on ATN. All of the seats are in groups of 3. We were lucky enough to have the 3rd seat empty on both legs of our journey. It's nice having that extra room. All in all, I had no issues with Air France.
We arrived in Papeete on time...at 4:30am. Got through passport control very easily. One benefit of flying AF is most of the people are European, so our passport line went very quickly. We collected our luggage without issue this time. We put big blue UCLA luggage tags on our suitcases so hopefully no one would accidentally grab our bag like last time. Probably not that many French UCLA fans anyway. :-)
For what ever reason there was a slight delay in the opening of the airport bank. Not sure if the guy overslept or what. It is usually open right when the flights come in....but this day it didn't open until about 15 minutes AFTER we got our luggage. Not really a major issue waiting around though, as our ferry to Moorea wasn't until 7:30 anyway. I exchanged our money and was slightly disappointed in the rate we got. The rate had been going up quite steadily in the days prior to our trip, and was around 84-85xpfs =$1. But that is the bank to bank rate....I knew the cash rate was going to be 3-5 points less...and it surely was....more like 5 points less!!! We got just under 79. BUT...it was still way better then the high 60's we got a couple years ago! (and now a couple weeks later, it's up to 88).
We paid 2500xpf for a taxi to the ferry docks. I think it probably would have been a little less if we had waited until after 6am, but Paul was itching to leave the airport. Not sure why, because we just sat at the ferry dock for about an hour and a half waiting for our ferry. If we had stayed at the airport awhile, he could have at least sat and had a beer! We ended up having a great time watching the cranes unload a cargo ship in the harbor....we are VERY easily entertained. :-) An ambulance arrived just before the ferry, we assumed it was to pick up a passenger. Sure enough, they wheeled out this guy on a gurney....had a broken leg, a broken arm, and a serious case of road rash. Obviously ANOTHER victim of a scooter accident....and this time it wasn't a tourist, but rather a local. This was my second trip in a row I encountered someone who had a scooter accident.
The ferry (the Aremiti 5) was uneventful. A very smooth crossing. Our transport, Torea Nui, met us at the ferry dock in Moorea on time and we were off to Club Bali Hai. I was hoping there would be no one else in the van so I could ask the driver to stop at the market to pick up some beer as we have done in the past. But there were several other passengers, so I didn't ask.
Arrived at Club Bali Hai and went straight to our room at about 8:15am. There was practically NO ONE staying there. There were only five rooms taken the first few nights, four rooms on most of the other nights, and we did have a couple when there were only three. Unbelievable! Just so sad to see how far off tourism is down there. We got our favorite over water bungalow, #42...all the way down at the far end of the property, very private and one of the largest bungalows. Woo Hoo! One good thing about no one staying there!
It was so empty at CBH, they've stopped the free Tahitian dance show on Wednesday nights. They no longer have their Monday night crab races or the Tuesday night Pareo demonstration. The reception desk closes in the afternoon for a few hours. The Blue Pineapple is closed on Tuesdays now. It really is very sad to see what the downturn in tourism is doing to the islands. Also Hiro's Tours is no longer based at CBH. I think they are at the Pearl now...or at least over in that area. But the staff at CBH is still as delightful and friendly as ever.
We got settled into our room. Made a quick market run for a few essentials.....HINANO, baguette, butter, water, and juice. No sooner got back to our room and it started to rain. Pretty much rained the rest of the day and night.
Next day, it was fairly nice in the morning. A little bit of blue sky. We went to the Blue Pineapple for breakfast. Had the yummy Tahitian donuts called firifiri. We always get them on Sundays. Yummy!!! Shaped like a figure 8, and sort of like an old fashioned cake donut. Just before noon, it started to rain AGAIN! Pretty much all day again.
Amazingly enough the next day was pretty nice all day. Mostly sunny with some passing cloud's. Didn't rain at all! Woo Hoo! Maybe the weather Gods don't hate us after all. Little did we know what they had in store for the future though! LOL!
Next couple days weren't too bad weather-wise. Mostly cloudy, off and on rain/showers pretty much all day and night. And then.....we started getting some very heavy rain and some winds the next few days. As is usually the case, when it rains heavily the runoff into Cooks Bay turns it to a very ugly muddy brown....and this time was no different. Makes snorkeling impossible. One good thing about the rain though...some nice water falls off the cliffs on the opposite side of the bay.
Paul had a friendly little encounter with a gecko one morning. I hear him in a panicked voice calling to me to come help him in the bathroom. I figured maybe the toilet was over flowing or something. I get in there and there is the littlest tiniest baby gecko crawling up his arm. He was so cute. Turns out he was on Paul's toothbrush and when he picked it up to brush his teeth the gecko got on his hand and then crawled up his arm and onto his back trying to escape. He didn't want to swipe at the gecko for fear of hurting him, so he had me gently brush him off his back onto the counter. He was so cute. We just love geckos. We saw the little guy a few more times during our stay...along with several of his relatives! A beautiful large green one (which is what Moorea is named for) hung out in our kitchen most evenings. And they do such a fine job of catching all the little bugs. Every morning we find a new collection of wings on the floor, bathroom counter, etc. For what ever reason, I guess geckos don't like to eat the wings. Maybe too much fiber or something. :-)
Later that day we had a nice visit and lunch at the Blue Pineapple with some Trip Advisor folks I had talked with before our trip. Always fun to meet people from the various Tahiti Forums. They were staying at the Hilton and were having a great time.
Later that afternoon we found out a tropical depression Nisha was in the French Polynesia neighborhood. The ladies at the reception desk gave us the key to #8 in the main building just in case we needed to leave our room because of the approaching tropical depression. Although we had some pretty good winds and rain during the night, we never felt unsafe in our room. So we stayed. Nisha wasn't too much of an issue. Made for a few days of bad weather, but nothing serious. Figured once it was gone and blue skies would follow. WRONG. Well...not completely wrong.....we DID have ONE day with blue skies the following week. LOL!
The next day our neighbors in #40 told us a hilarious story of their experience the night before. They don't like to use the air conditioning, so they left the windows and their sliding door open all night. In the middle of the night they woke to the sound of clickity click click....clackity clack clack right near the bed....they looked over and there is this land crab hanging off the night stand on the side of the bed just staring at them. The over waters at Club Bali Hai are very close to the land so it ispretty easy for one of the land crabs to go up onto the deck. But you wouldn't think they'd go in the room.... I guess he was either very curious, or wanted out of the storm. Not to self...don't leave sliding glass door open all night. Not only can mosquitoes get in...but you can get a bad case of the crabs! :-)
This was not a small crab! The body was about 6 inches in diameter. They got the broom and the crab latched onto the stick end of it and they took it outside and deposited it back on shore. Just too damn funny. We kept teasing them for the rest of their stay about "having crabs"! Turns out when they did a further search of the room later that day, there was another smaller one hiding under the bed. Another job for the broom. Who would have ever guessed how handy they are for things other than sweeping the floor!
A few days later I took a look outside as I always do when I first get up...and what do I see all over our deck??? Toilet Paper! Lots of it! It's wrapped all around the railings of our deck, on the loungers, on the outdoor shower head. We'd been TP'd in Tahiti! I can honestly say, that is something I NEVER expected to happen in Tahiti! LOL! Naturally we knew EXACTLY who did it...our “crabby" neighbors across the way! It was funny as heck. I took pictures of it and then quickly took it all down...I was terrified of what the maids or grounds keepers would think if they saw it. LOL! Not sure if they would understand the prankster humor of it.
Later that evening we discover there is a new storm in the area...only this time it is not just a tropical depression, it's a full fledged cyclone....named Oli...about 350 miles off of Bora Bora and headed south. We are southeast of Bora Bora. It's supposed to move mostly south and we won't have a direct hit, but it will side swipe the islands. It wasn't supposed to come through until the following night....so we had plenty of time to prepare. Decided to prepare in style....so we sent out for pizza. Actually I think the only reason Paul likes sending out to Allo Pizza is so we can get their chocolate mousse. It is to die for! Seriously yummy chocolate goodness.
We were again given the key to #8, but again decided to stay in our over water bungalow. I was a little more concerned this time and actually had a backpack packed with our essentials and sat it on the night stand...just in case. It rained REALLY hard several times during the night. And the wind also blew VERY hard....literally howled through our bungalow...which is not air tight. It seemed to come through in bands. About every 2 hours or so another round of heavy heavy rain and winds would come through.
Around 2 am I woke up by a huge thud....boom...thud...boom...thud... I'm thinking what the hell is that??? I could tell something was smashing into our bungalow but didn't know what. Maybe a tree trunk or something. Most of the time it was just a thud, but every so often it was a big boom that shook the bungalow. How Paul sleeps through all this stuff is beyond me! After a few minutes I got up to look outside to see what it was. One of the outrigger canoes that were moored a few yards away down the beach had broken free and was smashing into the deck of our bungalow. I knew it wasn't large enough to do any serious damage to us, so I went back to bed. The noise continued for about a half hour and then stopped. Next morning I went out on the deck to see where the outrigger was, and a guy with a dumbfounded look on his face was wading out in the water where the canoe was, looking at the ropes it had been tied down with. I told him the canoe was over here smashing into the bungalow around 2am and I had no idea where it was now. He shrugged his shoulders and we both looked down to the foot of the bay...pretty sure it would be down there somewhere. Not sure if he ever found it.
The next day we had a lunch date set up with our friend Maluha who we had met at Raimiti on Fakarava a couple years ago. But she called that morning to cancel because the gendarmes (police) suggested people not be on the roads unless necessary because of the approaching cyclone. Damn, I was really looking forward to meeting her little baby daughter Ava-iti. Because of the cyclone and our departure date, we weren't able to reschedule our lunch. :-( I also called Poehere (another friend, who lives on Tahiti) that morning to say hi and see how she was doing with cyclone preparation. She was in the process of taping up all the windows of her house. Nothing like a little cyclone prep to make your afternoon.
I went down to the lobby to take a look at the weather on CNN world. It was actually a big enough storm to make the world news. They showed the approaching cyclone, officially named Oli, and it really didn't look too good. It was already pretty good sized, had a nice well defined eye, and was expected to strengthen. Yes, it was not expected to directly hit any of the islands, but would come close enough to cause some concern and possibly some damage. It was due to come through late that night/early next morning.
We still had the key to room #8 and decided to go ahead and evacuate this time. Judging from the white caps and 1-2 foot breaking waves in the normally very calm Cooks Bay, I knew it was a good idea! I started moving our stuff over to the other room about 11. By noon, when I had finished, the wind was VERY strong and the waves were already washing up on the walkways between the annex area of CBH (where we were) and the main part of the hotel....making the trek between the 2 sections very difficult Shortly after I finished moving over the hotel staff came by and said it was now mandatory that everyone move into the main building. Glad I hadn't waited because I would have had to rush to do it now. By 3pm when the winds really started blowing we knew we had absolutely made the right choice by moving. The maintenance guys went to our old room and taped up all the windows in case they blew out. That particular bungalow is the most exposed of all the over waters at CBH. It has 2 huge walls of sliding glass doors and one of them faced right into the main direction of the wind.
By then the other 3 couples (2 in overwaters and 1 in a beach bungalow) also moved to the main building. 2 on the top floor and 2 of us on the bottom floor. We joked that if the winds blew the roof off, the 2 upstairs could move in with the 2 of us downstairs. And if the waves came on shore to the point of flooding the rooms, then the 2 of us downstairs would move upstairs to their rooms. LOL! We pretty much had all our bases covered! The CBH staff also ran out to the store and bought flashlights and extra batteries to give each of us, just in case we lost power.
Most of the stores and restaurants closed early on Wednesday and didn’t open until later in the day on Thursday. The only restaurant I know that was open Wednesday night was Rudy’s.
I had a cell phone that works in FP (thanks Barbi!), so I was the contact person. I had the security guy’s number and the office woman's number just in case there was an emergency in the middle of the night. The other 3 couples knew I had a phone, so it gave all of us a little piece of mind. We went to our room and hunkered down for the night.
The Bay View room in the main building was fine. ...except that it hadn't been used for at least several weeks. There were many mosquitoes in there...and Paul was on a personal mission to kill them all. I don't think he quite succeeded, but at least we didn't get bit by any of them.... they were just annoying....although not quite as annoying as Paul on his mission to eradicate them! He was completely obsessed with getting every last one of them. While I was pulling down the bed covers to steal the pillow off the spare bed, I felt something on the back of my thigh...I turned to look and reached back to brush my leg and it was a freakin’ roach...an oh so lovely golden brown color and about 2 inches in size. I about jumped out of my skin. He took off as I brushed him off....no idea where he went, but thank God I never saw him again. Oh well...we still felt safer in that room with its assorted little buggy critters than we would have in our over water bungalow. We did miss our geckos though. And had there been some in that room, we would NOT have had so many dang mosquitoes! We would have had a neat little pile of wings in the morning! Next time I evacuate our bungalow, I'm bringing the geckos with us! :-)
We slept very well that night in the main building. Heard very little of the wind, and the rain only woke me a couple times during the night. Paul, naturally, slept through it all. I ventured out the next morning to survey the damage. It really wasn't too bad. Some downed tree limbs and other assorted foliage strewn about. A few tiles blew off the roof of the main building. Lots of debris washed up on the beaches. Some beach erosion in a couple places. A little bit of the concrete deck of the Blue Pineapple collapsed where the sand was washed out from under it. And the sand walkway to the annex area of CBH washed away....that was probably the worse damage. But overall, the damage was very minimal...it was more just a lot of clean up that was needed than actual repairs.
The gendarmes shut down the roads to travel until around 10-ish, so the road damage could be assessed. Only place I know for sure that had an issue was the bridge near Club Med. Water from the lagoon was meeting runoff from the rivers and both were spilling up onto the bridge, so the gendarmes shut it down to both auto and foot traffic. Basically you had to go all the way around the island to get from one side of the bridge to the other.
Other damage on the island I heard about was...Muks dock washed away at his home....the dock washed away at Les Tipaniers...all the guests were sent to the Intercontinental...for the same price they were paying at Les Tips...a couple of the lower decks were damaged at the Hilton...several locals homes were damaged in the Papetoai area...some potholes were in the roads in some areas. All in all, very minimal damage to the hotels on Moorea. Worst damage was to the homes of some locals.
We were a bit concerned if we were going to be able to get off the island the next day to make our connections back home. But we figured if our departure was delayed, there are surely worse places in the world to be stuck than French Polynesia! The ferry (and the flights) were not running most of Wednesday and Thursday. The officials were pretty sure they'd be running on Friday (which is when we planned to take it) but we wouldn't know for sure until Friday came and they could see how the seas looked.
We got the all clear Friday morning so we packed up and headed off to the ferry docks on Friday afternoon. We took the 1:45 ferry, and I can honestly say...it was about all I could handle. If it had been any longer than the 30 minutes, I would have lost my lunch for sure. I've taken the ferry many times and it has NEVER been even close to that rough. In hindsight I should have taken a Dramamine before we left, but stupidly I didn't. The seas really didn't look that rough, so I didn't think it was necessary. But there were some serious swells once we got outside the reef. Not a fun crossing at all.
Beni from Fare Suisse met us at the ferry dock to take us to Fare Suisse to spend our last night. Super nice guy. Younger than I expected. Very energetic and is running a great operation. I was VERY impressed with Fare Suisse. It's a lovely place. Up on a hill overlooking Papeete on a gated drive. Very clean and very well designed. The common areas were very nice. A kitchen, living-room, and outside terrace. He also has an honor bar with beer, sodas, water, and juices. Very reasonable prices....400xpfs for the large size bottle of Hinano.
The individual rooms (we stayed in the Raitea room) are quite nice. Small, basic, simple, very comfortable, very clean, crisp white linens and paint, minimalist decor in tans and browns, very modern bathroom with a delightful rain-shower showerhead, typical French showers with no door....so the floor gets all wet, air conditioner that actually worked a bit too well, and free wi-fi. For 85 euros a night and includes free transport to and from the airport/ferry docks...what a deal!!! He also charges 1000xpfs for a continental breakfast (which we did not try). My only complaint would be there was no sitting area in the room. So if you wanted to relax and read, you either had to do it on the bed, or go out to the terrace...but that's a minor issue. I would stay here again for an overnight stay in Papeete in a heart beat. Honestly, for the money, you can't beat it.
We had no issues catching our AF flight the next morning. The check-in line moved about as slow as the ATN lines normally move. The whole check-in and security process took about an hour. It looks like they have done some remodeling in the departure area of Fa'aa airport. There is a new bar/snack area downstairs. They have taken out one of the stores and cut the space of the other (duty free store). The seating areas have been rearranged. All in all it seems much nicer and more efficient use of space. Not sure what they are doing with the up stairs. I didn't go up there to check it out.
Our flight home was uneventful. Again the 3rd seat in our row was empty, so we had extra elbow room to spread out. That really makes a difference. We kept our backpack on the extra seat so we could easily access all the stuff we used during the flight. Again, the food was pretty good...as was the wine and beer...and the cognac aperitif. :-) And the entertainment system was great. We love the touch screen instead of having to figure out the dumb remote. Lots of movies to choose from. Great choice of music. All in all, it is far superior to ATN's entertainment system.
Landed at LAX a bit early. Guess what??...it was raining!! Another benefit of flying Air France....NO LINE at the passport control at LAX! I swear, I think there must have only been 10-15 Americans on the flight. We just walked right up to the counter and 30 seconds later we were done. It did take about 15 minutes for our luggage though. Sadly, we arrived early enough that if we had booked the Southwest flight I was considering, we would have been able to make it. But it just seemed to be too tight of a connection to take the risk. So we had to wait 4.5 hours for our United flight. That was NOT fun. I was already dog tired and just wanted to get home and go to bed. FINALLY at 10:45 we got on our United flight and got back to Vegas. Guess what?? Yep...it was raining!
.....three days later...as I'm writing this report....it's STILL raining. :-(
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#84280 - 02/10/10 10:02 PM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: Patti.]
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travelintom
Member
Registered: 05/06/04
Posts: 456
Loc: california
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great report!!! great attitude!!! you guys are the best.....hope to see you soon....
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#84284 - 02/10/10 11:22 PM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: travelintom]
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Poehere
Expert Advisor
Registered: 08/18/07
Posts: 2340
Loc: FP
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Hihihi Patti and the rain... it is SO very hot here now but beautiful weather and another storm heading our way, called René... hmmmmmm @%#=*$ should not have taken the tape off huh!
glad to read that you made it ok, sorry did not get to meet, it took us 4 days to clean up the mess LOL
_________________________
* with sunshine *
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#84285 - 02/10/10 11:29 PM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: Poehere]
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Patti.
Expert Advisor
Registered: 03/28/04
Posts: 2376
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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Nisha... then Oli...then Pat..and now Rene?? What happened to Q? No Q storms? What's wrong with those people who make up the names?
I figured you would be pretty busy, that's why I didn't bother to call when I got to Tahiti. We'll try to catch you another time...probably not in February though. I think I've learned my lesson! :-)
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#84287 - 02/11/10 05:08 AM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: Patti.]
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DenverJoe
Expert Advisor
Registered: 09/10/02
Posts: 1849
Loc: Denver, Co.
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Great report Patti. And a really good atitude, considering all that went on. Thanks for the info on Air France. They're in the mix for our next trip.
_________________________
Nothing better than a Hinano in hand and toes in the sand.
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#84288 - 02/11/10 05:11 AM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: Patti.]
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Old Wife
Expert Advisor
Registered: 02/21/03
Posts: 2302
Loc: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
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Great report, Patti. I was thinking how sad it was that tourism was down so much, but maybe it was a good thing with all the storms you had (it would have been such a disappointing first trip to FP)! Air France sounds way better than ATN to me (I hated the food & my TV screen didn't work). Did you find the space roomier at all? I sat against the window and got a wee bit claustrophobic on ATN.
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#84289 - 02/11/10 06:20 AM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: Old Wife]
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hamara
Expert Advisor
Registered: 01/07/02
Posts: 2296
Loc: Washington/Moorea
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Thanks for the great report. It's those blue luggage tags that
made the "Rain God" mad so he got even and rained on you guys.
Thanks for including the bit about the scooter accident. You know that most all of us who go to FP preach "Don't Rent Scooters" Why people do is beyond me. They take the chance of ruining a vacation to paradise. Your commemnts about the geckos
was super. I'm glad we fly Hawaiian
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#84290 - 02/11/10 06:45 AM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: hamara]
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spotbeagle
Member
Registered: 09/11/06
Posts: 358
Loc: California
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Great report Patti.
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#84292 - 02/11/10 08:33 AM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: spotbeagle]
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Patti.
Expert Advisor
Registered: 03/28/04
Posts: 2376
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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Tracy~ I'm going to do a point by point comparison between AF and ATN later today, so you can see the differences between the two.
Bob~ I can understand why they rent them. It looks fun and it's cheaper than a car. It's easy to have the "it's not going to happen to me" attitude. And quite honestly, MOST people don't have an accident on them. BUT I also don't think they understand the high percentage of people who do. It is much higher than most people realize.
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#84293 - 02/11/10 10:37 AM
Re: Moorea Trip Report~ Jan/Feb '10...REALLY REALLY Long!
[Re: Patti.]
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carrieg
Member
Registered: 04/10/06
Posts: 147
Loc: Los Angeles
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Great report Patti. I was thinking about you a lot, and wondering how you were when the storm was hitting Tahiti. I'm glad to hear everything turned out ok!
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